Into the North

Hanging out with Kemal

We crossed the UN Buffer Zone in Agios Nikolaos and spent two days in Famagusta with our host and devout heavy metal enthusiast, Kemal. We first got together with Kemal for a Meze lunch in the old city of Famagusta that is still lined with Venitian walls and gates. The main gate was designed by Leonardo Da Vinci.

“So you’re a Turkish Cypriot?” I asked.

“Yes, but first I consider myself Cypriot. We Cypriots have many commonalities. Culturally, our foods, our communication, we are both very loud (everyone at the table laughs).

“…So can the island be unified?”

“I believe people can live together everywhere. Turkish Cypriots and Greek Cypriots live together in London and Australia, why can’t the live together here?”

The unification process, though, will not be easy. “To pass the referendum is one thing. To implement it is another. And to truly achieve peace is yet another very hard thing to be achieved.”

He is very hopeful for the unification of north and south Cyprus. Kemal believes it needs to be done in the immediate future. “The Turkish Cypriot identity is in serious danger right now…the problem is that there is a population shift to the island from Turkey, so you see Turkish Cypriots assimilating to Turkish customs and ways, creating on the island a Turkish identity, not a Cypriot identity.”

Our excellent host also took us to the Ancient City of Salamis at dusk. We were the only ones there and it was incredible. It was our very own ancient playground.